Mid-Weight vs Heavyweight Hoodies: 350, 380 or 500 GSM for Your Brand?
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A mid-weight hoodie (around 350–380 GSM) is the better choice when you want a relaxed, versatile piece that layers easily, garment dyes beautifully and keeps your unit cost sensible. A heavyweight hoodie (around 500 GSM) is the better choice when the hoodie is the product: a structured, substantial hero piece that feels premium the second someone picks it up. Most brands don't need to pick one forever. They need to pick the right weight for each job.
This guide is purely about weight. If you're still deciding on fabric construction, read our French terry vs fleece breakdown first. Here, we compare what changes as you move from 350 to 380 to 500 GSM, and which weight suits which kind of drop.
What GSM actually tells you about a hoodie
GSM means grams per square metre. It measures the weight of the fabric, not the weight of the finished garment. A 500 GSM hoodie isn't a hoodie that weighs 500 grams; it's a hoodie cut from fabric where one square metre weighs 500 grams.
Two things are worth knowing before you compare blanks:
- "Mid-weight" and "heavyweight" aren't standardised. Some suppliers call anything over 350 GSM heavyweight. Others reserve the word for 450 GSM and up. Always compare the number, not the label.
- GSM isn't the whole story. Fibre, yarn and knit construction change how a fabric feels and drapes. Two hoodies at the same weight can feel quite different in the hand. Weight is the best single indicator of substance, but it's still worth handling a sample.
350 vs 380 vs 500 GSM at a glance
| 350 GSM (mid-weight) | 380 GSM (upper mid-weight) | 500 GSM (heavyweight) | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hand feel | Soft, relaxed, easy to wear | A touch more body, still relaxed | Dense, structured, substantial |
| Drape | Falls softly | Falls softly with more weight at the hem | Holds its own shape |
| Warmth | Year-round, good for layering | Year-round, slightly warmer | Autumn and winter outer layer |
| Layering under a jacket | Easy | Easy | Bulkier |
| Perceived value | Quality everyday piece | Quality everyday piece with extra heft | Premium hero piece |
| Postage weight | Lighter | Lighter | Heavier, so check your shipping bands |
| Best for | Core range, garment-dyed colourways, merch | Core range with a fuller feel, seasonal colours | Flagship hoodies, embroidery-led designs, winter drops |
When a mid-weight hoodie is the right call
Mid-weight hoodies earn their place in almost every range. They're comfortable from early autumn to late spring, sit neatly under a coat, and don't overwhelm smaller frames.
Garment-dyed colourways
If your brand runs on colour, mid-weight cotton is a natural base. Our 350 GSM relaxed fit hoodie in ecru is 100% cotton and can be garment dyed to your own Pantone shade. The 380 GSM relaxed fit hoodie in Olive Drab shows what that looks like in practice: it's garment dyed to Pantone 18-0622 TCX, giving the soft, lived-in character that dyed pieces are known for.
Merch and volume orders
Tour merch, event runs and staff orders need a hoodie that feels good, prints cleanly and doesn't push the unit cost past what the job can carry. A mid-weight blank does that. It also packs smaller for the merch table and the post.
Choosing between 350 and 380 GSM
The gap is small but noticeable in the hand. 350 GSM is the lighter, easier all-rounder. 380 GSM adds a little more body and warmth while keeping the same relaxed, slightly oversized fit. If you want a mid-weight hoodie that feels a step more substantial on the rail, sample the 380.
When a heavyweight hoodie is worth it
A 500 GSM hoodie is a different proposition. Pick one up and the weight is the first thing you notice. That density gives a structured silhouette that holds its shape on the body and on the hanger, which is exactly what premium streetwear buyers look for.
Your hero piece
If one hoodie is going to carry your brand's reputation, make it heavyweight. Our 500 GSM hoodie in black is heavyweight French terry with a slightly oversized fit and ribbed cuffs and hem. It's also available in grey marl, and as a 500 GSM double zip hoodie if you want a zip-through in the same weight class. Our pullover vs zip-through guide helps with that decision.
Embroidery-led designs
Dense fabric gives embroidery a stable base, which helps reduce puckering around heavier stitch areas. If your design leans on a large embroidered chest piece or a dense back hit, heavyweight is the safer canvas. Our guide to embroidery on heavyweight blanks goes into stitch counts and placement.
Winter drops
For a cold-weather release, a heavyweight hoodie works as an outer layer in its own right. That's a selling point you can put front and centre in your product copy.
The trade-offs
- Cost: more fabric means a higher unit cost, so your retail price has to justify it.
- Postage: heavier parcels can tip you into a higher shipping band. Weigh a packed sample before you set delivery charges.
- Layering: a 500 GSM hoodie is bulky under a jacket. That's fine for a statement piece, less so for an everyday basic.
How weight affects printing
All three weights can be printed with DTG, DTF and screen printing, or embroidered. Weight changes the feel of the finished piece more than whether a method works.
- Screen printing: a dense, heavyweight surface feels premium under a bold, full-coverage print. Mid-weight takes screen print just as well and keeps the garment softer overall.
- DTG: performs best on high-cotton surfaces, so 100% cotton mid-weight blanks are a strong match. As with any fabric, run a test print first.
- DTF: forgiving across weights, which makes it a practical choice for small runs on either.
- Embroidery: works on both, but heavyweight gives you more margin for dense designs.
We offer DTG, DTF, screen printing, embroidery and garment dyeing, so you can sample the finished result, not just the blank.
Building a hoodie range with both weights
You don't have to choose one weight for your whole brand. A simple structure that works for many ranges:
- Core: a mid-weight hoodie in your signature garment-dyed colours, priced as your everyday piece.
- Hero: a 500 GSM heavyweight in black or grey marl, priced and marketed as the flagship.
- Seasonal: a new garment-dyed shade on the mid-weight body each season, keeping the range fresh without changing your base garment.
Before you commit, order one of each weight and wear them for a week. With zero minimum order on blanks you can do that for a handful of pieces. Our guide to sampling blanks before a bulk order is written around tees; for hoodie-specific checks, use our blank hoodie buying checklist.
FAQ
What GSM is a mid-weight hoodie?
There's no fixed standard, but mid-weight hoodies commonly sit around 300–380 GSM. Our mid-weight relaxed fit hoodies are 350 and 380 GSM. Always compare the actual GSM rather than the supplier's label.
Is 350 GSM a good weight for a hoodie?
Yes. 350 GSM gives a hoodie enough body to feel like a quality garment while staying comfortable year-round and easy to layer. It's a strong weight for core ranges, merch and garment-dyed colourways.
Is a 500 GSM hoodie too heavy?
Not for its purpose. 500 GSM is dense and structured, designed as a premium outer layer for autumn and winter. It's less suited to warm venues or layering under a jacket, which is where a mid-weight earns its place.
Does a heavier hoodie last longer?
Denser fabric generally holds its shape better over time, but longevity also depends on fibre, construction and how it's washed. Wash cool, inside out, and avoid the tumble dryer to keep any hoodie looking new for longer.
Which hoodie weight is best for garment dyeing?
100% cotton dyes most evenly. Our 350 GSM ecru hoodie is 100% cotton and can be garment dyed to your Pantone shade, and the 380 GSM Olive Drab is an example of a garment-dyed finish. Custom colours start from 30 units.
Can I order one of each weight to compare?
Yes. There's zero minimum order quantity on our blank clothing, and in-stock blanks are dispatched the next working day from our UK warehouse.
Ready to feel the difference? Explore our full range of blank hoodies, from 350 and 380 GSM relaxed fit hoodies to 500 GSM heavyweights, with zero MOQ and next-working-day UK dispatch on in-stock blanks. Want your hoodies in your own Pantone shade, printed or embroidered? Get in touch and we'll help you choose the right weight for the job. Vend Fabrics has been a UK textile manufacturer since 1972.